Sri Lanka’s last royal capital endured as the final independent Sinhalese kingdom because its highland geography and its cultural institutions made it genuinely difficult to dismantle. The Sri Dalada Maligawa’s three daily puja ceremonies – drumming filling the outer courts with a sound both martial and devotional – remain among the most moving ritual experiences on any Sri Lanka itinerary. Kandy is also the gateway to the highland tea country and the departure point for the most celebrated train journey in Asia.