Yapahuwa served briefly as the royal capital in the late 13th century, and its surviving ornamental staircase – carved with scrollwork and figure work of remarkable delicacy – is one of the finest examples of late Sinhalese architectural carving on the island. Rajagala, in the Eastern Province, is a forest monastery of a completely different character: ancient stupas and meditation chambers scattered across a jungle hillside accessible only on foot, with the forest having reclaimed most structures over centuries. Both sites reward the traveller who seeks the difference between visiting a heritage destination and actually finding one.